ask a friend: sweet treat edition
asking cool folks where they're going for a pick me up to beat the heat!
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This is a special edition of the letter, friends! Your Friend in Food is launching a new column, Ask a Friend. This is a new series where I tap into my Rolodex of pals whom I admire and trust their taste to give me their best recommendations, stories, and opinions. As someone who is always the de facto concierge of her group chats, it’s nice to get help from other cool people, too.
For our inaugural edition, we are diving into sweet treat culture. Life’s hard as it is, so why not make days brighter with something delicious that will make your heart flutter and maybe strike a wee bit of nostalgia? Yes, I’m narrating how I feel when I take the first lick of an ice cream or a big bite out of a warm cookie.
Now that I’m back in New York City full-time, I’m on the lookout for new spots that can fuel my insatiable craving as well as have selections so good that I have to be a regular. With summer in full swing, I reached out to nine of the coolest people I know to ask about their sweet treats of choice. We’ve got neighborhood spots, destination-worthy selections, and something for those of you who are all about the “we have dessert at home” life. And if ice cream isn’t your thing, we didn’t forget about you. Some of these spots I’ve been lucky to expereince and a few have made it onto my summer bucket list!
Alright, let’s dig in!
(@thisneedshotsauce)
Publicist and Author, This Needs Hot Sauce Substack
As a Virgo with an ongoing summer countdown, my summer sweet treat has to be ice cream, and I have two favorite spots.
First is The Screen Door in Greenpoint, which is a seasonal shop (I track their opening every year, there's something thrilling about its fleeting availability) with excellent soft serve and hard ice cream. I usually get a classic twist cone with rainbow sprinkles and eat it in McGolrick Park across the street. For something extra special, you can get a flurry with soft serve and mix-ins of your choice—it's miles better than the fast food version.
Ice cream always bring me back to my childhood, when just about anything could be an excuse for ice cream. The best ice cream was and still is from Eddie's Sweet Shop in Forest Hills. A soda fountain that's been open for over 100 years, it's the place to go for homemade whipped cream piled high, hot fudge, ice cream sodas, and the best coffee chip ice cream (get a hand-packed pint to go). It's cash only, and you'll wait a little bit for your scoop, but it is absolutely worth it. Bring your own Lactaid!”
(@easygayoven)
Recipe developer, Content creator, and Author of Easy Gay Oven Substack
“I try to make at least one trip to L&B Spumoni Gardens in Gravesend, Brooklyn, every summer. It's a trek from where I live, which is why my friends and I usually tack it on to the end of a Rockaways beach day.
Of course, the fluffy, Sicilian-style pizza is their whole thing, but what I can't leave without is either the 1) bright red, absolutely artificial cherry ice or the spumoni ice cream (vanilla, chocolate, and pistachio flavors swirled together), both piled high in an adorably tiny paper cup.
These are flavors that in a million years I would never get at another ice cream establishment but there. They are nostalgic, delicious, and transport me far away, even though I'm only 8 miles from my house.”
Stephanie Cho (@stephanie_cho)
Pastry Sous Chef, Raf’s & The Musket Room
“My friends know that if you're coming with me to a restaurant, we will be ordering the entire dessert menu. One reason I chose this career is because I love sweets and never tire of eating dessert.
I think some of the best desserts in town are at the abc restaurants (abc kitchen, abcV, abc cocina). Chef Ashley Drum helms the pastry program at all three restaurants, and her desserts are incredibly seasonal, fresh, and thoughtful. If it's your first time, the caramel popcorn sundae is iconic and was ahead of its time when it first debuted over 15 years ago. It's still as good as ever, but my preference is to order the seasonal pie (right now cherry at abc kitchen), sundae (strawberry shortcake at abcV), or cookie plate (available at all three).
For a lighter ending to your meal, you should absolutely order whatever seasonal scoops are on the menu—the flavors are always exciting and the ice cream is the ideal consistency and texture. Fun fact: abc kitchen's carrot cake was one of eight cakes at my wedding this spring! It's my favorite carrot cake in the city.”
(Editor’s note: can confirm that Stephanie’s wedding dessert curation was one of the best dessert courses I’ve ever tried.)
Basu Ratnam (@basuratnam)
Founder, INDAY
“While I definitely lean more savory than sweet, I can never resist the tiramisu at Torrisi—it's one of my favorite spots in NYC right now. That said, I’d be remiss not to plug our own INDAY Spiced Sesame Coconut Chocolate Cookie. It’s a gooey chocolate chip cookie topped with coconut flakes, sesame seeds, and just a hint of Kashmiri chili and sea salt. It's seriously delicious and what could be better?”
Michael Robinov (@michaelrayrobinov)
Co-founder & CEO, Farm to People
“I love to cook but rarely bake, so I usually satisfy my sweet tooth while out and about, though I always keep a stash of chocolate at home for late-night cravings. Here are a few NYC desserts I’ll go out of my way for again and again.
The flourless chocolate cake at Ops is a frequent detour on my way home from the Farm to People warehouse -- it’s rich, dense, and perfectly balanced, especially with a dollop of unsweetened panna on top. I’ve definitely ordered it to-go more times than I care to admit. I’m also obsessed with the unapologetically messy chocolate mousse at Buvette. It feels like the kind of dessert you’re not supposed to eat alone, which of course makes it perfect for solo indulgence.
For something lighter (and non-chocolate), the brown sugar bubble tea at Xing Fu Tang hits the spot every time, especially on those humid summer days.
And of course, no NYC summer is complete without a scoop (or swirl) of ice cream. My go-to spots: Van Leeuwen, Il Laboratorio del Gelato, Gentile, and Caffè Panna”
(@rebeccafirkser)
Cookbook author, recipe developer, and author of Substack
“My current dessert obsession is, of course, galettes—mostly because my cookbook Galette! was just published, but also because they're truly a perfect summertime treat.
Just try to think of a summer fruit that wouldn't be lovely baked in a buttery pastry crust! I love picking up my produce from the McCarren or McGolrick Park farmers markets.
If any readers pick up a copy of my book, check out the "Anything Goes Galette" on page 132. It's perfect for making use of your farmers market produce haul.”
(@redcurrantbakery)
Cookbook author, recipe developer, and content creator
"Every year, sometime in May, my best friend and I text each other, “Guess what I saw today? A Mister Softee truck!” It means summer in NYC has officially started, and we’re both counting down the days until she orders a plain vanilla and me a chocolate with chocolate sprinkles.
A Mister Softee soft serve cone is the epitome of NYC summer - it’s one of those foods that brings people together and makes them smile. There is no shortage of creative desserts in NYC from savory ice creams to babka ice cream sandwiches, and celery ice cream floats (all of which I love btw) - but there is something so wonderfully simple about only having 3 choices: waffle or sugar, chocolate or vanilla, and sprinkles, dipped or plain.
If we’re going bottom to top, I think soft serve should always be served in a sugar cone; it’s too light and fluffy for a waffle cone. The ice cream and toppings depend a little more on my mood, but it’s either chocolate or a chocolate-vanilla swirl, and then chocolate sprinkles. All summer long, Mister Softee trucks line the streets of NYC, and then one day, at the end of summer, they’re gone. No warning, no nothing, and yet it’s ok because you know they’ll be back at the same time next year. "
(@emmacharding)
Co-founder and CEO, RE: Agency, Author of Substack
“In the summer, I find the calling for a sweet treat hits at all hours of the day — probably least after a long, filling dinner on a hot summer’s evening. I want something cold and refreshing when I need it most. So, I keep it simple.
I LOVE Culture’s frozen yoghurt (their unsweetened flavors are my favourite), but I think so much of something you love is the ritual of it, which is why my chosen treat is Matchaful’s matcha x earthglow soft serve twist. As a matcha snob and a serious ice cream enthusiast, it combines two of my most loved things.
I usually walk to their West Village location on a summer’s afternoon with Boots (the dog) in tow – when she realizes where we’re going, she starts speeding up. We enjoy our treat meandering back home via Bleecker Street - and yes, we share it!”
(Editor’s note: As a fellow child of the Commonwealth, I kept Emma’s British English spellings in there hehe)
(@lindsaypaulen)
Content Creator and Author of Substack
“Much to my lactose-intolerant stomach’s chagrin, soft serve is my summer sweet treat of choice. It’s my favorite way to cool down, spend time with friends, and lean into childhood nostalgia.
My favorite can be found at Dolly’s Coffee Shop, which despite its name, serves some of the best ice cream around. The flavors change weekly, and it’s only on the menu during warmer months, so in the summer I find myself in line at Dolly’s more than I’d like to admit… Is flavor fomo a thing?
Flavors fall into two categories: nostalgic treats, such as banana pudding (my favorite of the many flavors I’ve tried) and chocolate cake, and fruit-forward, like mango and watermelon. Not to mention, each cup comes with homemade toppings which vary by flavor, but include things like cake crumbs, mini cookies, vanilla-bean whipped cream, and even mini blueberry pancakes. Dolly’s is admittedly a little deep into Brooklyn, but it’s worth the trek to Ocean Hill — just make sure to check on Instagram that soft serve hasn’t sold out for the day!”
To make it a perfect (contributor) 10, here are a few spots in the city where you’ll catch me indulging in a sweet treat.
Heap’s
The other night at dinner, I asked my friends what their dream summer gig would be. Some mentioned baristas, camp counselors, and running a smoothie shop. For me, it was a tie between operating a lobster shack or slinging scoops at an ice cream shop! I’d be remiss to say that my expereince was inspired by a recent visit to Heap’s1.
This Park Slope establishment is the type of creamery I wish my parents had taken me to after I aced a test or won a tennis match! It has the comforts of your classic ice cream joint, with a rotation of classic childhood flavors made with farm-fresh milk and locally churned to perfection! And there are a few modern selections like Strawberry Matcha Latte and Mango Sticky Rice, because what’s a Brooklyn institution without some artisanal culinary creativity.
I also appreciate the family ties! The shop is named after Grandma Heap, a matriarch in founder Matt Lieber’s family who made it a rule to have shared bowls of ice cream at every family function. What a beautiful way to honor family and also create an adorable community space where there is truly something for everyone.
Carvel has been real quiet since Heap’s dropped their chocolate fudge cake ice cream, which blends bites of ooey gooey chocolate cake, the right frosting consistency, and those perfectly rounded sprinkles without the wonky chalky taste. This is the type of dessert that will earn you unlimited invites back to the family function!
Don’t even look in the direction of a bodega freezer when you can grab one of their ice cream sandwiches, made with cookies from sister restaurant Pies n’ Thighs. They come in fun flavors like classic Chocolate Chip, Salted Toffee Caramel for the more sophisticated folks in the room, and Confetti Cotton Candy for those hoping to fuel our inner nostalgia. Also, streets are saying that Heap’s will be partnering with some of their food friends for some limited drops! I can’t wait to see what cool things people come up with, and now maybe I (secretly) want to do an ice cream collab.
Le Chêne
I feel like most of my sweet tweet consumption happens after a delicious dinner! I’m a big believer in second stomach: the philosophy that encourages one to take a beat on the savory courses to make room to comfortably indulge in dessert. Additionally, I feel like restaurants are levelling up their desserts with the same attention and creative expressions as their main offerings.
Last night, I walked into La Chene, a newly opened neighborhood spot in the West Village, bringing top-brass French techniques paired with exceptional local produce. I’ll save the savory stuff for an edition of ten things but I was blown away by the dessert selections.
This vanilla millefeuille was one of the many sweets envisioned by Theo Gardet, the brilliant pastry chef who cut his teeth at Alain Ducasse’s restaurants in Paris and moved stateside just for his new role. What a fantastic move by Alexia and Ronan Duchêne, the brilliant couple behind the restaurant.
Okay yes back to the dessert! Sandwiched between two golden, flaky puff pastry sections is a generous and decorative dollop of crème pâtissière and a light drizzle of silky caramel sauce. Then you’ve got another beautiful quenelled dollop of cremey p atop this magnificent structure. And just when you thought it was all over, the waiter gently pours perfectly tempered chocolate sauce on the side, bringing this intensity and fervor to a light, flaky, and creamy bite. Blink and you’ll have bodied the entire dessert in less than 10 bites :)
Thank you for reading and thanks to my lovely friends for sharing their favorite selections! If you can, give them a follow, like their work, subscribe to their ‘letters, or support their businesses!
Now, turning the question over to you, where are you going for sweet treats, either locally or internationally? I’d love to hear them and bonus points if there’s a fun story!
Eat well and be well!
Your Friend in Food,
Abena
This was a gifted experience made possible by MONA, but trust I’ll be returning back when I find myself in Park Slope
thank you so much for the feature <3 I feel it's important to share that soft serve ice cream is *also* a very big part of my summer sweet treat journey lol
SHOUT OUTTTTT SPUMONI <3