ten things #3: April 17, 2025
cheesy denim, Kurdistan grocery stores, and cheesy denim
Hello to the 89 new subscribers who have joined since the last issue! Welcome to our big table :)
Welcome to the first edition of Ten Things in 2025!! For those of you who aren’t familiar, this is one of the newsletter’s columns (is there a better word for categorizing this type of edition? ) where I share ten food-related things that I’ve enjoyed and also some things I think you would love!
Consider these roundups to be the long text recaps you receive from your food-obsessed friend!
This post is too long for email and will be more enjoyable in the Substack app!
Nashville weekend with Les Dames d’Escoffier
I started writing this edition from my hotel room in Nashville, where I spoke on two (!) panels at the inaugural M.F.K. Fisher Symposium for Women in Food Writing and Storytelling. The event was hosted by Les Dames d’Escoffier, an organization that aims to support women in the world of food.
Over two days, I got to hear from amazing women like Joan Nathan, Marion Nestle, Andrea Nguyen, Lisa Marie Donovan, Kim Severson, and Jamila Robinson talk about their work as storytellers shaping the way that we talk about our food and the people responsible for it. I fostered new connections and strengthened old ones, and also walked away appreciating the power of intergenerational relationships. We even got to watch an M.F.K. Fisher documentary honoring the incredible food writer’s life and career.
I was initially hoping to attend this conference as a scholarship recipient, but right before I submitted my application, the organizing team asked me if I’d speak about the future of food and representation in media. I’m still so green in my food career so whenever I’m asked to share my opinions on work and thoughts on the industry, I pinch myself and am so honoured to be in such amazing and fulfilling spaces.
Following up on an iconic keynote conversation between Toni-Tipton Martin and
, two women who have been instrumental in my appreciation for food culture was no small feat, but I was proud to even share the same stage as them. When they came up to me after the talk to share their praise and even give feedback for future panels, 17-year-old Abena who used to obsessively read archive Gourment issues, was beaming.
I must confess that I really didn’t experience Nashville’s food culture as much as I wanted to. Most of my meals were at the conference, and when I did have free time, the horrific weather and tornado warning goaded me to stay inside.
My first night in the city, I ordered some Hattie’s B Hot Chicken to my hotel room. Streets (aka Instagram) were saying it wouldn’t be a real trip to Music City if I didn’t have Nashville Hot Chicken. I ordered the Quarter Legs with dark meat that came with pickles and two slices of white bread that were soaking up the crackling sauce. The sides were no joke and I was pleased with my creamy mac and cheese, black bean salad, and coleslaw with JUST the right amount of salad dressing. Next time, I’m doing a comparative analysis with Prince’s, the OG institution for Hot Chicken.
Making up for my lack of leaning into the local dining scene, I wanted to explore a fun grocery store while I had some downtime. After a Reddit rabbit hole, I read that Nashville has the largest population of Kurds outside of Kurdistan with their little enclave in the city. One morning before the conference, I Ubered over to the quiet strip mall that housed Little Kurdistan’s grocery stores.
Strolling through the aisles, I got a decent understanding of Kurdish cuisine through the snacks, pantry staples, and produce. I found a lot of commonalities with Indian cuisine (biryani is a popular Kurdish dish), Levantine cuisine (dates, grape leaves, parsley, and cheese were available in abundance), and even some notes of Turkish culture as well (a majority of the packaged goods were made in or imported from Turkey).
This was a goldmine of snack study content! I didn’t know that you can can baba ghanoush, I was very intrigued by this mango sauce, and I loved that there was a significant portion of the sweets aisle dedicated to Turkish delight. I wish I was hungry to eat a sizeable meal, but I bought a few savory snacks for a quick breakfast and fresh baklava because I simply cannot go anywhere empty-handed.
I can’t wait to visit Nashville again, bringing a bigger appetite so that I can enjoy a heaping plate of biryani and amazing places like International Market, Monell’s and Bad Idea.
CDMX Chefs for Vogue
A few months ago, I spent a week running around Mexico City talking to eight incredible chefs for a story in Mexican Vogue! I have a really hard time saying that I’m proud of myself, but this is one of the best things that I’ve worked on. The photos were beautifully shot by Karla Lisker, an exceptionally talented photographer who created such a comforting space for our subjects. We shot all eight chefs in their restaurants, and I was just in awe of Karla’s creative direction and the confidence that she evoked in every woman.
I’ve spent the last two years in CDMX finding joy and comfort in the restaurants that are littered around the city. In between dining and snacking and bonding with friends, I came to notice the phenomenon of exceptional women who are an integral part of the city’s rapidly transforming dining scene. In a way, this piece is a love letter to the city and the way that restaurants are such important institutions in celebrating Mexican culture. Some of these women have become my closest friends, and others are heroes that I’ve long admired for how they bring their full selves to their work.
I’m especially grateful to Karla Martinez de Salas, Vogue Mexico’s Editor-in-Chief who listened to the casual pitch at a breakfast hang and was super eager to make it happen, and Karina Ulloa, my amazing editor who trusted my curation and gave such amazing advice and feedback!
There’s a digital version, and if you happen to be in CDMX, pick up a copy of the March issue on newsstands. And yes, you can consider this piece a mini Mexico City dining guide :)
Omakase at Kill Bill
Speaking of CDMX cuisine, I recently had one of the best meals of my life at Kill Bill, an omakase and hi-fi listening bar just steps away from Roma’s Parque Rio de Janeiro. I am the last woman in North America to have visited Japan, but I feel transported to a quiet street in Tokyo after stepping into this spot.
The pale wood and gentle lighting create a warm and comforting vibe that makes you forget you’re in one of the most bustling cities. They have three options of omakase, and I opted for the one with the most offerings. Dining alone, I initially brought a book to keep me company, but I was in awe of how the sushi chef was preparing each piece with care and delicacy. There’s a reason why the chef’s counter is the best seat in the house.
Making small talk, I learned that he got into sushi almost 20 years ago and just made his first trip to Japan a few months prior. The hand rolls were perfect, every piece of nigiri melted into my mouth, there was a divine chocolate oyster with mushrooms, spinach, and tomatoes, and the matcha tiramisu to cap the meal filled my heart.
Initially, I didn’t want to imbibe opting for the Lysegrøn Sparkling Tea, a bubbly green tea made in Copenhagen. But after a few courses, I got this amazing sake that had slight citrus notes that just made every dish taste brighter and better. In total, everything came up just shy of $300, which is a mega treat but absolutely worth it if you’re looking for a place to have a special night out.
Thank you to KAPR agency for making this happen!
Food x fashion case study: Kerrygold
Mark my words, but 2025 is the year of food and fashion! Yes, culinary and couture have been in harmony for a minute (I’m working on a whole series about this) but especially this year, we are seeing a renaissance and a mutual sense of collaboration and inspiration from both creative fields. One brand that seems to understand the assignment is Kerrygold, the iconic Irish butter.
Kerrygold truly is my girl! Their butter was always in my fridge growing up, they were the first brand to sponsor my podcast, and even invited me on a life-changing trip to Ireland a few years ago. Even if they hadn’t blessed me with all these incredible things, I would still ride for them. They’re stepping into the merch business with exciting offerings in a way that feels authentic to their brand. From a business perspective, it also makes sense. There is so much butter and cheese I can purchase, and creating an extension of the brand that is functional could only strengthen their relationship with their customers.
Fully leaning into the butter yellow moment, they have sweaters and water bottles donning the colour as well as evoking the grassy greens with their corduroy hats and tote bags. And don’t get me started on the cow print socks! The logo placements are stated as well, so you don’t feel like a walking billboard but can signal that you are a big fan!
I also love that they are partnering with other artists in this world-building. They recently collaborated with a friend of the newsletter, Hello Adrienne, on some illustrations that bring a playful vibe to the brand. Also, Beaded Bodega recently made a hand-embroidered replica of the golden wrapper. They had an amazing activation at Cherry Bombe’s Jubilee where attendees could spin a wheel to win personalised merch ranging from totes, hats, sweaters, and even pennants!
Kerrygold is also introducing American audiences to brands across the pond. Last month, they launched a limited run in partnership with Native Denims, a slow-fashion brand based in Dublin. The Cheese Pocket Jeans feature a mini pocket embroidered with buttercup motifs, ideal for tucking in a cheese stick for snack time. According to Irish lore, hiding a wee piece of cheese was said to ward off fairies, so we can even consider this to be a historical piece.
The team was so generous to send me a pair, along with an entire cooler full of cheese and some other goodies. They’re so comfortable, and I honestly am eating my cheese too quickly to even put one in my little pocket!!
Salone del Mobile faves
Sticking on the food x fashion train, I’ve been closely following the hubbub at Salone del Mobile, the Milan-based fair that seems to be a required stop for design enthusiasts. Design is one of the areas that I’m not well-versed in, but I’ve been leaning in via late-night Pinterest moldboard and YouTube rabbit holes on architecture. While I’m not there to experience it, I’ve been impressed by a few activations, and especially seeing the way that food and fashion are merging.
Queen of the trompe d’oeil Laila Gohar, partnered with Finnish design studio Marimekko to create an immersive installation asking the question “what happens in bed?”
Guests could enjoy sandwiches, fries, and warm beverages served on stately trays while lounging in the giant custom bed draped with Gohar x Marimekko linens set to launch in September. In true Gohar World fashion, Laila marked the occasion by cutting into a bed-shaped cake, putting a new meaning to sweet dreams.
Loewe hosted a tea party, inviting 25 international artists, architects, and designers to reimagine the structure of a teapot. Taking inspiration from the “steeped” history of teapot designs and tea culture, artists took to thinking differently with some cool interpretations.
Some of my favourites were English painter Rose Wylie’s set inspired by the British Royal Albert ones, Masaomi Yasunaga’s had an earthy feel, and I just adore these covers resembling For the tea connoisseurs, the fashion house partnered with Kyoto’s Kaikado to make tin-plated caddie, there was an Earl-gray candle in a terracotta vessel, and charms shaped like dangling tea bags. I’m still not over these covers shaped like animals. It warms my heart and would also keep my pot warm.
“Earthy” Slop toast with tinned vegetables
I’m a big believer that toasts are the best lazy sophisticated meal. Yes, both words can exist in a sentence! In this week’s toast rotation, I’ve been inspired by my friend Gaby who has been sharing her “slop” bowls in the group chat. “Slop” best describes that lunch bowl filled with the right amount of protein, healthy carbs, and greens that most certainly tastes better than it looks.
Leaning more vegetarian with my rendition, I was inspired to make a “slop” toast. Afterlife Mushrooms gifted me a curated box of their finest fungi, which I roughly chopped, seasoned with some cayenne, salt, pepper, and cumin, and sautéed in some nice olive oil. Then, I finely chopped some sweet garleek, a veggie hybrid engineered by Chef Dan Barber’s Row 7 Seeds, sauteed in some olive oil and a small pad of butter (forever Kerrygold!) for some creaminess.
I popped my sourdough into the toaster (honestly could have fried it but whatever), smeared a generous layer of whole milk ricotta, and topped it with the mushrooms and garleek. Still feeling I needed more on my toast, I popped open a tin of Row 7’s canned Badger Flame Beets, one of the selections from their limited run of tinned veggies. The cubed and peeled beets were set in white balsamic vinegar that had this slight tang, which complemented the beet’s earthy sweetness. I sampled a few (read: ate half the tin) and topped the rest onto the toast. Craving just a little more heat, I drizzle some Gloria’s Shito Hot Chili Honey and Algae’s Shiitake Mushroom Oil for some heat!!
At some point, I want to do a deep dive on Row 7 because I love how they’re bringing new vegetable concepts to the market. Plus, tinning vegetables at their peak is such a brilliant move. I also love that they partnered with Island Creek Oysters, another Your Friend in Food fave, to make this happen. I promise this is not an ad, I paid those Whole Foods prices. They’re currently rolling them out at Whole Foods in the Northeast. For those of you who aren’t in the area, fret not! They just announced a giveaway on Instagram and will ship to the lucky winner!
Chatting with the team via DMs, they’ve been so blown away by the positive response that they hope to have them as a permanent part of their lineup. Can confirm that the tinned Sweet Garleek is delicious and the Honeynut Squash pairs great with a warm bowl of pasta!
Fungi Festivities
I love a themed party, especially one with a purpose in mind! When friend of the newsletter, Dana Cowin (
) wanted to partner up for her monthly Potluck for the Planet series, I knew we had to create a vibe so comforting it made our guests feel welcome and also make more friends. Dana started Progressive Hedonist as a community-driven organization inspiring people to take actionable steps in making sustainable change that is good for the people and the planet.As an expression of connectivity and expanding networks, we hosted a mushroom-themed potluck in partnership with creative studio Care of Chan and Project Gather. The initiative, spearheaded by former Surgeon General Vivek Murthy, provides everyday individuals with resources and tools to empower more people to connect through food.
We curated a guest list of our favourite friends in food who brought a bevvy of dishes to the table.
brought this amazing giant brown butter cookie tart with candied mushrooms, Christine made fried enoki mushrooms tempura-style, Bettina brought mushroom paté with some seasonal veggies, and Jen whipped up these mini onigiri with pickled shittake. Raf’s pastry chef Camari Mick also came through with a candy cap mushroom flan topped with these delicious caramel swiggles! June also made these delightful Shiitake Shallot kombuchas that paired well with every bite on my plate.
There was an array of fun activities that made the evening engaging. Arist Sage Parsley made some beautiful illustrations, Erica Bonelli of Philo Studios made some stunning arrangements with tastefully placed mushrooms, and we hid good-growing units around Dana’s apartment, creating a “foraging” scavenger hunt for guests to take mushrooms home. Everyone also wrote postcards to themselves on one action that they would like to take going forward.
It was a delight stepping back into my gathering and hosting era, and it was even more special seeing both of our worlds coming together and witnessing food being this catalyst for connection!
Beans (and other things) at Smithereens
I feel like we New Yorkers have convinced ourselves that if you’re not going to the restaurant on opening night, then you’re missing out. I’m going to hold your hand and say this (I’m also talking to myself here), but it’s okay to go to a restaurant six months or heck even a year later. I mean, isn’t the true mark of a successful restaurant that it’s around for the test of time?
A few weeks ago, I made it to Smithereens, the buzzy East Village restaurant that has been open for about six months. The vibe is elevated sea shanty and the menu is inspired by Northeastern fare with some hints of Japanese inspiration and French technique. And this makes a lot of sense considering the chef, Nick Tamburo, worked at Claud and Momofuku!
My friend Lydia made the reservation for 5:30 on a Friday night, a baller move, and along with our friend Audrey, we tucked into a meal that fuelled some great conversation! Nearly 3 hours later, we left with both our hearts and bellies full.
Everything was exceptional! We unanimously decided that the bowl of brothy white beans was the star of the show. I love the seafood-forward approach with red shrimp, squid, a slightly tangy broth and topped with panko breadcrumbs, lemon zest, and uni that added the right amount of umami and enhanced the creaminess of the dish. I also loved the abalone skewers, akin to what you would find on any izakaya menu, and the buckwheat pancake, which had a layer of flaked bluefish underneath!
Now I feel like restaurants consider dessert as an afterthought, often offering a flourless chocolate cake and using sorbet or ice cream as a canvas for flavour exploration. Smithereens isn’t following that playbook!
The celery dessert was a bowl of coffee ice cream with maraschino cherries perfectly dolloped on top in a pool of fizzy housemade celery soda. I loved how the rawness of the celery paired well with the rich creaminess of the coffee. There might have also been a dash of sea salt, which just rounded the bite.
We also tried the candied seaweed which had a whipped concoction with hints of licorice and citron layered between! It was like nothing I ever had and I loved the leatheriness of the seaweed contrasting with the creaminess of the whip! This is a spot I’d come back to and would be ideal for a third date or impressing your pescatarian pal visiting from out of town.
HOWOO
I’m a big believer in dinner theatrics or having some interactive element that makes going out that much more fun. A few weeks ago, I was invited by HOWOO’s PR team to experience dinner at their buzzy new location. There was one year in college where I lived in Midtown and had many fond memories pre-gaming karaoke nights with a dinner at the many KBBQ spots that littered 33rd street.
Well, this was quite the level-up! HOWOO is an elegant and massive two-level space with sleek wood and dim lighting that creates this sense of intimacy for such a big space. Esther, my college bestie, and I came famished ready to dig in! We started with the steak tartare that came atop some sliced Korean pear. The seaweed crisps in a light tempura-like batter were a great pairing.
There is the à la carte option but feeling decision fatigue, we went for the prime package that came with two types of short rib (snow marble and marinated diamond-cut), chuck flap, and skirt steak. You are also offered two rounds of accompaniments, including ban-chan that can be refilled at any time, fluffy egg soufflé, kettle pot rice, or kimchi stews. Just shy of $80, we were stuffed to the gills and I felt a wee bit guilty leaving some food on the table.
We didn’t have to lift a finger as everything was made for us. And although that is my favourite part when it comes to going out for KBBQ, it was nice to be taken care of.
Our grill master was so kind and hospitable, offering the best suggestions for which sauce to pair with our meat, and telling us about his favourite places to eat when he’s off duty.
Their cocktails were stellar and their mocktails don’t appear to be an afterthought. I got a Ginger Lemon highball that was crafted with this delicious turmeric cordial and loved seeing a creative spin of Ghia on the menu.
There’s only one dessert option on the menu, which we love to see! The Nokcha soft serve (Korean green tea powder) comes with a light dusting of green tea powder. It’s not too sweet, silky, and just what you need after stuffing your self with boatloads of banchan.
Howoo is the spot to take your partner’s parents to thank them for the Le Creuset set they gifted you, a date night celebrating a milestone, or after an afternoon strolling through the Morgan library.
Thank you to MONA Creative for gifting this wonderful experience!
ROMEO vibes @ Audrey’s Breakfast Counter
I feel like going out to dinner is standard practice for socialising, but lately I’m entertaining the idea of breakfast hangs. It’s a great start to the day, kinder on the wallet, and also it can be a great motivator to leave your house!
Friend of the newsletter and baker extraordinaire Audrey Leonard (aka redcurrentbakery) invited me and a few pals over for a Sunday brunch. I was expecting yummy pastries, eggs and a well-brewed coffee. But when I stepped into Audrey’s apartment, I didn’t expect to be transported to a cozy country diner.
From the detailed menus presented in sleeves to the giant poster and even the little matchboxes that we got to take home, Audrey created an extraordinary moment for an everyday hang. Turns out, this is a fun side project where she is testing unique concepts for a future café/restaurant space. I will always support the homies by testing out their concepts!
The menu was such a delight! The theme was Retired Old Men Eating Out (ROMEO), an ode to the grandpas who frequent diners for some early grub. There were old-fashioned cake donuts and marble cake in honor of what you’d find in the pastry case, steak and eggs made up the mains, and for dessert there was the most decadent chocolate cream pie topped with freshly whipped cream. I feel so inspired to bring more ceremony to my everyday meals with artistic details and just the right dash of hospitality.
Some things for you!
A core tenet of being a friend in food is putting the homies onto what’s happening. We don’t gatekeep in this house! So here is a curation of fun events, releases, and reading material that I think you’d appreciate!
Chloe Lucas Walsh at Happier Grocer
Friend of the newsletter
is blessing us New Yorkers with her exceptional dinner series that she’s been hosting in Los Angeles. For two nights, April 18th and 19th, Chloe is curating a Mediterranean-inspired dinner with handpicked selections of wines and cocktails as well as a vibe-forward music playlist. For $85, this dinner is happening at Happier Grocer’s events space, Happier Apartment. Considering it’s a communal dining experience, it will definitely be a great place to meet friends who also love food!Hailee Catalano's book tour
Friend of the newsletter and everyone’s favourite comfort creator, Hailee Catalano’s debut book, By Heart, came out this past Tuesday and marks the beginning of her book tour! I’ve already made the Spinach Artichoke Ziti, and I can’t wait to keep cooking through it!
I love the balance between book signings and collabs with bakeries and restaurants, bringing recipes from the cookbook to life! There are sandwich pop-ups in NYC and Los Angeles, a Sunday gravy situation in New Jersey, and a dinner at Hailee’s old jaunt in Chicago!
On May 5th, I’m joining Hailee in San Francisco at Omnivore Books. We will start at 6:30 pm, so come early because it will be a tight squeeze! And stick around to get your book signed by Hailee. Hope to see you there!
Jikoni Pop-Up, Los Angeles
Friend of the newsletter, Kiano Moju, is hosting a pop-up residency at Melody in Los Angeles starting on April 17th and wrapping up on May 10th. The Jikoni pop-up will showcase small plates that are a “little bit Kenyan, a little bit Nigerian, and a whole lot of AfriCali.” The pop-up will go down from Thursdays to Saturdays and will start at 5 pm until they sell out, so you better run!
Expect to find dishes like suya spiced lamb skewers, chili lemon butter-drenched chicken & chips, shrimp jollof arancini, Swahili style biriyani, and Kiano’s signature desserts that you should definitely save room for.
Kiano wrote an exceptional book last year celebrating her third culture heritage and this pop-up series is a brilliant extension with some recipes coming from the book! No reservations are required, so pull up with your homies or maybe make new ones while you’re there!
José Andrés Dinner
In celebration of his newest book, Change the Recipe, Chef José Andrés is hosting a tasting experience at the Ritz-Carlton New York, Nomad. The book is a collection of life lessons and anecdotes that have been a key force in shaping Chef Andrés’ career. From 5 pm-7 pm on April 22nd, this dining experience will feature some dishes that shaped Chef Andrés’ illustrious life (croquetas de pollo) and classics from The Baazar (Philly Cheesesteak Airbread, Cotton Candy Foie Gras), one of his many signature restaurants. We love an early dinner on a school night!
The $155 dinner also includes gratuity, bevvies, and a signed copy of the book! Maybe you can have witty banter en español with Chef or ask him for the secret to making the best tortilla en su casa. Check out OpenTable for more details and to book a spot!
Culinary Industry Night by The Libi Project
If you’re in NYC and are looking to make more friends in food or discover new products or initiatives, Libi Project’s Culinary Industry Nights are the move.
For their seventh iteration, Libi is taking over Rule of Thirds on April 28th at 6:30 pm. You’ll get some quality time networking and sampling amazing goods from producers, hear an inspiring panel with baker and community builder
, ex-Noma chef and founder of Brigaid Dan Guisti, and founder of One Love Community Fridge, Asmeret Berhe-Lumax. Tickets are $30, which is a good deal for a great night out!Unfork the Planet x Progressive Hedonist
Friend of the newsletter, Dana Cowin, is bringing the energy of Progressive Hedonist to San Francisco from April 14th to 20th. In partnership with the non-profit Zero Food Print, Unfork the Planet is a national campaign rallying restaurants in support of regenerative agriculture.
Participating restaurants create a climate-smart dish designed to either source better, reduce waste, or drive regeneration, with proceeds going directly to farmers working to restore the planet. You can enjoy dishes at over 20 restaurants across the city! Check out more Unfork the Planet’s events in Brooklyn, Denver, Portland, Los Angeles, Seattle, and Kansas City!
Food is a Mother, Volume 3
Food is a Mother is an amazing initiative run by friend of the newsletter
Tyson. Anja curates this amazing zine with recipes, stories, and artwork surrounding a theme, with all the proceeds going to support Little Essentials, a non-profit devoted to supporting New York City's at-risk families living in poverty to promote the health, well-being and safety of children under five years of age.I’m so honoured to have contributed an essay about my late grandmother and there are also some amazing works from folks like
, and Sanaë Lemoine. Pre-orders are live so pick one up to support indie media and a great cause!That’s it for this edition of ten things! I’ll be back soon with another roundup of all the great food-related things I’ve consumed. Anything sparking joy in your life lately? Let me know in the comments below.
Eat well and be well!
Your friend in food,
Abena
What a round up!!
thank you for the mention darling! they were super fun nights, and i can't wait for more! :)