ten things #4: june 9 2025
Hamptons cookie trips, spicy wings, and back-pocket pasta
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Hello, hello, and happy Monday! Welcome to another edition of Ten Things, the newsletter column where I share food-related things I loved and things for you to try.
I seriously can’t believe that June is here! May was a beautiful blur, and I was so outside, I didn’t have time to write a newsletter 🙈. From attending amazing events in New York, spending a week in California interviewing a dear friend, and partaking in my annual friendship retreat, and reading many, many cookbooks like bedtime stories, it was such a comforting month.
I’m so hyped that summer is showing her face. This year, I’m leaning into the slowness, staying close by and enjoying what the city and its surroundings have to offer.
I realized the last edition of Ten Things was loooong, so we’re going to switch things up a wee bit. For this and future editions of Ten Things, I’ll tell you six things I’ve done and four things for you to enjoy! As always, if you have something cool going on, feel free to share!
Alright, let’s dig in!
This edition might be too long for email and will be more enjoyable on the Substack app.
D.C. Dispatch- Black Women in Food and D.C. Dining Scene
In early April, I spent the weekend in the nation’s capital for the Black Women in Food (BWIF) conference. Growing up in predominantly White spaces and having spent most of my 20s trying to connect more with the Black diaspora, weekends like these remind me of the influence, impact, and legacy that Black women have created and continue to maintain in the food world.
It was a true honour getting asked to moderate a panel on the evolving nature of food media and the importance of building your voice. Content creator Eden Hagos, freelance journalist Lenore Adkins, and PR maven Charissa Benjamin offered solid advice and key insights on how to be successful in the world of food!
One of the talks that stood out to me was the keynote address with Dr. Jessica B. Harris and celebrated oenophile
. You should already know who these women are! Dr. Harris talked about seeing herself as a gazelle among antelopes and how that mantra always reminded her to embrace her difference and find comfort in embracing who she is. As someone who is trying to find her place in the food world, this message really stuck with me, and it’s a mantra I’m often muttering under my breath when I’m having a hard time.
Despite it being a short trip, I had some pretty memorable dinners and in great company, too.
I treated my younger brother, a new-ish DMV resident, to dinner at Elmina. This is an exciting and energizing modern Ghanaian concept led by the impressive Chef Eric Adjepong. Growing up, we were fortunate to experience a variety of cuisines in fine-dining concepts, but it was extra special to see our motherland represented so beautifully. Also, considering that we were just in Ghana a few months ago, it was a nice way to cure the homesickness. Excited to bring my parents here for a meal soon.
I had an amazing dinner at Ellē, a chic spot that reminds you of the fun aunt who boasts a serious vintage china collection and has encyclopedic knowledge on all things culture. I caught up with one of my best buds in food, Becca Jacobs. She is one of the best recipe developers I know, and her recipes have this exceptional balance of comforting and innovative.
Kiking at the bar, we shared some spiced peanuts to work up our appetites. Then, we dug into the kimchi toast, topped with XO sauce and a coconut caramel, and a smashed koji sweet potato served as a base for a mix of sliced Granny Smith apples, Castelvetrano olives, a bright and lemony chermoula sauce, and pistachio butter.
The seared scallops hit the spot, and the contrast with the crunchy paella fried rice and the bits of fresh scallion hit the spot. Dessert was class! The cherry sorbet had the perfect balance of tartness and creaminess, plus the crushed candied almonds on the side added a depth of texture I wasn’t expecting. I was also very impressed with the honey goat cheesecake with a brown butter shortbread, and served with roasted strawberries!
As if the food wasn’t already impressive, Elle had some serious merch game. I noticed a server wearing one of their sweatshirts, inspired by the font of the classic French magazine. A brilliant expression of food x fashion!
When the waiter mentioned they were fresh out, I was so close to bartering with the server just to make that merch mine. Luckily, he offered to sell me the display sweater. I said yes, and now it’s my favourite sweater, perfect for lounging around the house or running errands. Also, I’m amazed at how many compliments I get, and unfortunately for those people, I will not be selling the shirt.
I’m heading back to D.C. in a few weeks to see Beyoncé(!!!), so excited to dive back into the impressive dining scene. If you’re local, please let me know your faves, I’d love to try!
Pre-gaming summer in the Hamptons with Tate’s
When I was a college freshman, guided by my own free will and no longer under the watchful eye of my granola mom, I used to stock up on Tate’s crispy chocolate chip cookies from the local bodega. There was always a pack of them on my desk, and I’d eagerly reach for them during long study sessions.
It was a dream come true when their PR team (shout out Isetta) invited me to the Hamptons to learn more about the rich and sweet history behind the cookie brand. Founder Kathleen King is a force, and when you learn more about the resilience, determination, and grit that went into making this company happen, you just want to keep rooting for her. Highly recommend listening to her How I Built This episode.
Over the course of 30 hours, we had a jam-packed itinerary that somehow felt relaxing. Shortly after we checked into our hotel, A Room at the Beach, enjoyed a quick lunch outside, and made our way to the iconic Tate’s store.
We were ushered to the back of the house kitchen. Freddy, who has been with the company since the beginning, showed us how the original cookies were made, without divulging too many of the trade secrets. I had so much fun doling out portioned cookie scoops onto the trays, yearning for approval from Freddie. (Of course, I passed the vibe check!)
While the cookies were baking, another team member beautifully demonstrated what goes into the Marie Antoinette cake, and got to walk around the front of house, checking out the offerings that are exclusive to Hamptonians, seasonal, and permanent. Outside of the famous cookies, Tate’s is serving up some decadent ice creams, brownies, lemon tarts, and other pastries that would spark joy after a difficult day. Once those cookies came out of the oven, we rushed to take a piping hot one off the sheet. The crispiness was HITTING, and it’s impressive that they maintain their cronch in the packets.
We went back to the hotel, freshened up, and enjoyed a fun wine and cookie happy hour. Yes, you read that right. The team at neighbouring Wölffer Estates paired some of their selections with Tate’s classics. Who knew a lemon cookie makes a great pairing with a crispy sauvignon blanc, and a Cabernet Franc can make a double chocolate chip cookie taste even richer? As someone who is trying to sharpen her wine knowledge, this was a fun exercise in picking up notes and also experiencing an unconventional way to know the grape.
We had dinner at Lulu Kitchen, one of the fine establishments on the main drag in Sag Harbor. Every dish hit and was a vibrant welcome to summer, despite the gloomy weather. For starters, the lobster salad was hearty and also refreshing; their signature roasted cauliflower with yogurt and spicy grapes was a delightful pairing. The grilled buttermilk chicken was great, and the tagliatelle with lemon beurre blanc, clams, and chorizo had that perfect combo of creaminess and slight tang you want from a pasta dish. Stuffed to the gills, I somehow made room for dessert, having a few scoops of Tate’s ice cream and sipping on a Tate’s tini. This is a spin on the classic espresso martini with cookie crumbs nestled on the rim. It tasted like an adult chocolate milkshake!
Whenever I’m close to a body of water, I’m legally required to go to it. The next morning, the early bird in me hopped on a bike, moseyed through the streets, and quietly meditated and manifested at the beach before walking and listening to my daily podcasts.
Right before we left, I stopped by Round Swamp Farm, the famous country mart known for its chicken salad and exceptional prepared foods selection. $63.87 later, I left with a haul perfect enough to fuel the drive back, but not enough to make a meal.
This trip really left me inspired. I walked away with a deep appreciation for entrepreneurship and craft, a new love, and a reminder that my talents will only continue to reap such amazing opportunities, and of course, great visuals for my moodboards.
Besharam
I think I need to do a longer piece on my week in Northern California, but for now, let me indulge you in one of the many memorable meals I had there.
Thanks to friend in food & PR whiz Diana Hossfeld, I nabbed a reservation at Besharam, one of SF’s most exciting Indian restaurants. Translating to “shameless” in Gujarat, chef and owner Heema Patel is crafting beautiful dishes that pay homage to her Indian childhood while also embracing the best parts of California culture.
Along with my friend Anne, we opted for the tasting menu which felt like a good introduction to the restaurant and the cuisine.
The six-course chef’s menu is a delight, themed under beautiful names and a solid range of light bites and generous main dishes. For “seasons carried home”, golden-fried biryani arinici was in a pool of tangy tomato broth. This place is a dream for vegetarians and even for committed omnivores, you’ll be proud that you got your five a day in a delicious way.
The “courtyard” course was the star of the show. A plate of fragrant jeera rice, pickle onion, gooseberry murraba chutney, and a creamy, tangy raita is set before you. But that’s not the full dish. These are merely the accompaniments to the paneer korma, served in a smoked cardamom sauce, and lightly cooked peppers, as well as sarson ka saag, a mustard green stew in a fenugreek sauce. Also, you’re encouraged to eat with your hands, which is the best way to experience a meal. That raita will come in handy to cool off the heat in the sauces.
For $95 per person (and the additional $49 wine pairing), this is a formidable option for a great dinner to impress out-of-towners or a special occasion. And you don’t need to grab a slice of pizza after this feast. By course four, I was already feeling full, having to buss out the old second stomach.
The mango kulfi, topped with macerated Harry’s Berries and a healthy drizzle of Brightland olive oil, was a wonderful cap to the meal, adding a light and tropical vibe that contrasted with the deep and rich dishes.
I can’t wait to visit and try the whole a la carte menu!!
Sweet Treat and Savory Time at Kellogg’s Diner
Having lived in New York on and off for the last decade, I’m quite familiar with Kellogg’s Diner’s game. As a naive freshman, I would go there with friends, drowning our sorrows over cheap breakfast plates and chocolate chip pancakes. It was the spot to spend mornings before you buried your head in mountains of readings or recover from a night bopping from one house party to the next. You weren’t going there to be impressed or discover a new technique to try at home— you were going for the classics and to effectively carboload.
Many moons and a pandemic later, Kellogg’s Diner disappeared and came back with an impressive facelift that would make any Kardashian jealous. Gone are the greasy line cooks serving monochromatic plates of barely passable breakfast food. In its place, a refreshing and exciting menu crafted by Chef Jackie Carnesi offers an impressive homage to Tex-Mex cuisine with a Brooklyn bend.
Not letting the horrid weather yuck our yum, my friend Alison and I tucked into one of the nouveau chic booths for a fun weeknight hang. We both came hungry, having eaten a quickly assembled yogurt bowl and half a peach blueberry muffin; Al had a bowl of Rice Krispies, a peanut butter protein ball, and half a smoothie. So we were ready to partake!
My fidgety and slightly hangry self ordered Chipotle wings and queso with nacho chips to get the party started. When the heaping plates arrived at the table, I was shocked, in the best way. This was not your New York small plates place. The wings were meaty, piled high, deeply coated in a fierce chipotle rub.
Carefully observing our selections, our server dropped off the green goddess Caesar, which was a cool, refreshing, and healthy interlude, recentering our tastebuds before tackling another ferocious wing.
For the main courses, I beelined straight for the classic burger. I normally let the menu guide me, but for some reason, it was all I could think about on my way there. Alison went for the fried chicken sandwich, which had the crunch of a classic offering without any of the greasy aftertaste. The coleslaw was also the right amount of tangy, bringing an exciting level of brightness to round up the bite.
For dessert, we were coming for the grand spectacle. Each month, Kellogg’s welcomes an industry pal to craft a unique dessert. For May, ice cream wizard and co-founder of Salt & Straw, Tyler Malek, made a Mock Apple Pie, inspired by recipes in their newest cookbook. Watch this space for a fun conversation with Tyler and co-founder (who also happens to be his cousin), Kim Malek!
Kellogg’s is just one of those places where you wish to be a regular. With each visit, you want to tackle a section of the menu, slowly marking each dish an accomplishment before you crown yourself the winner of the diner. I can’t wait to be back— either to pre-game a night on the town, go on a cute, cozy date after a movie, or simply come in for wings so good you need to take your glasses off.
Riff of the Month: Calabrian Chili Pasta
If I ever lose my cooking groove or am too busy to make time in the kitchen, this pasta recipe is one to bring me back. The other day, I bumped into friend of the newsletter and pastry chef extraordinaire, Caroline Schiff. And as two girls in food do, we were gabbing about all the exciting things coming up and sharing industry goss. Before we split ways, I asked Caroline what she was making for dinner, and she said that she was really craving a spicy pasta.
I feared I had to copy her homework, so I thought about it the entire train ride home, picked up a few ingredients from my local Whole Foods, and got to stepping! It’s a great back-pocket pasta, and chances are you have all the ingredients if you keep a well-stocked pantry. Also, I didn’t accurately measure anything, this is all vibes-based.
Start off by boiling some water (salt that stuff so it tastes like the sea). Then finely dice 3-4 garlic cloves and chop up half a large onion. Sautee those in some of your finest EVOO, let them sweat a bit, and then add in 2-3 anchovy fillets, depending on your preference for the fishies.
Now add your pasta to the boiling water. I’m a bucatini girl till I die, but Rummino spaghetti is also a formidable option. Follow the instructions for al dente time. To the pan with the alliums and anchoives, add in 2 generous squirts of tomato paste and like 2.5 tablespoons of Calabrian chili paste. Stir and let that caramelize for a few minutes. Then, deglaze with the white wine that has been living in your fridge. You should have a little sauce going that can lightly coat your pasta. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
By this point, your pasta should now be al dente. Add ‘em into the pan, toss a little bit of pasta water in there to help the sauce gel to the pasta, and give it a generous stir.
Plate your pasta and top with your tinned fish of choice (I went for these smoked oysters from Enoke), a generous crackling of black pepper, fresh herbs you’ve got, and some Parmesan or a sharp cheddar. For another kick of umami, add a few dollops of Algae Cooking Club’s mushroom oil.
Good Food Writing
Okay, I’m cheating a bit with this one, but here are some great food pieces that I’m loving lately!
This profile of James Beard award-winning chef and visionary behind Printemps culinary program, Greg Gourdet, reminded me that it’s NEVER too late to do the thing.
I can’t stop thinking about this account of Mackenzie Chung Fegan, San Francisco Chronicle’s food critic, experience at The French Laundry. No spoilers, but it makes The Menu look like an SNL sketch.
From buses in Switzerland to design-forward shopping centers in Sydney, Monocle highlights five grocers around the world who are crafting community-driven and well-curated stores. As a grocery store nerd, this sparked serious joy and offered a few spots on my bucket list.
The creator-led group trip is the new meet and greet. Bettina Makalintal penned this insightful piece in Eater on how creators are connecting with their audiences offline by hosting food-focused adventures around the world. I think this is an amazing opp for influencers who are introducing their communities to their native lands, but I’m a bit skeptical if you’re venturing to a place if it’s a creator’s first time, especially if you’re paying a premium. Wonder if this will be the new success signal for the industry, up there with cookbooks?
Lauren Collins had my attention in this New Yorker story describing the suitcases of French folks returning from a summer in their ancestral lands. But she kept me locked in describing how El Mordjene— the massively popular Algerian hazelnut spread— is now another line item in the already intense Algerian-Franco dynamic. There’s a black market selling the sweet jars at up to 5x their original price, secret stashes in convenience stores, and very formal statements from officials in both countries. There are even memes consipring that, like Imane Khelif, the Algerian boxer who received hateful comments at the 2024 Olympics, this condiment will knock Italian Nutella out of the park. Come for the culinary drama, stay for the fascinating food history and geopolitics lessons.
And now some things for you!
Asano opening (New York City)
Asano, an exciting concept transforming your p.m. restaurant to an a.m. café, is a refreshing approach to building thoughtful third spaces that are rooted in community and sustainability.
Run by friend of the newsletter Kate Kaneko, she was inspired by her Japanese-American upbringing that encouraged her to “consider waste as regrettable and find inherent value in everything.” Noticing empty restaurants idling in the mornings, she wanted to find a way that brought them to life, earn effortless revenue for these eateries, and also find ways to connect local artisans with friendly neighbors.
Today is their first day, so if you’re looking for your next work spot, you’re in luck. Head over to their Upper East Side location (which is an Italian restaurant by day) and sip on tea sourced from Japan, locally roasted coffee, and pastries that are crafted with Asian influence in mind.
I got to check out the friends and family opening on Friday and was impressed. I had my first strawberry matcha, fully understanding the power of an iced matcha, sampled some delicious pastries, and got through some morning tasks without feeling like I’d overstayed my welcome.
I can’t wait to see more locations pop up in the city and spot them via their signature noren, the Japanese entryway curtains that make every spot.
Carinito Tacos & Santo Taco (New York City)
You no longer have to catch a flight to fuel your hankering for CDMX- tacos.
Starting in Greenwich Village, Cariñitos, the Michelin-recognized spot, is bringing it with their six-month pop-up. Their selections pay thoughtful homages to bold Southeast Asian flavours. The gochujang-loaded Crunchywrap is a love letter to Taco Bell culture. A staple on the Mexico City menu is the Issan taco with Thai pork belly loaded with herbs, and the sweet corn ribs dipped in madras butter is a fun take on street-style snacks.
Once your belly is full, go upstairs to Los Salvajes and fill your cup with some mezcal, maybe a glass of natty wine, and groove to the thoughtfully curated song selections. They also have a serious DJ lineup on the weekends, so if you see me tearing up the dancefloor on a Saturday night with the girls, yes, you did.
Over in Soho, Santo Taco is bringing the vibes of a comforting yet electric 60s-era taqueria to the always popping NYC neighborhood. Former partner in Enrique Olvera’s Casamata group, Santiago Perez, along with friend of the newsletter, restaurant operations whiz Robyn Tse are blessing NYC with a concept that brings the right elements of fine dining with the gracious hospitality of a spot intended for a quick bite. There are only 7 stools inside and a good number of tables outside.
Before you panic, you can still get your fix of La Esquina tacos downstairs. Santo Taco is only occupying the upstairs space, and it’s honestly a beautiful symphony seeing how the two businesses cooperate.
The current menu has five taco selections— the chicken thigh with pineapple marinade, the carne asada with potatoes, the NY sirloin and strip, and the pork carnitas for the meat-eaters.
Veggie friends also have a great choice in the seasonal vegetarian option, with a mushroom mixture with squash blossom on the current rotation. Wash all these down with a refreshing Coke, Topo Chico, or the agua santa with palo santo.
BEM Juneteenth Celebration (Brooklyn, New York)
Juneteenth is going to be extra jubilant with Black-owned bookstore BEM finally entering their brick-and-mortar era. Since raising their Kickstarter round, the iconic owners, Gabrielle and Danielle Davenport, have been hard at work creating an affirming and community-driven space that will celebrate Black culinary literature.
On Sunday, June 15th, from 1:00 PM, come christen their new space, and experience a vibrant Juneteenth celebration honouring Black culture and creativity.
There will be a curated menu with selections from Nicole Taylor’s Watermelon and Red Birds: A Cookbook for Juneteenth and Black Celebrations. Nicole will also be in conversation with author and bookstore owner Katie Mitchell, celebrating the release of her debut book Prose to the People: A Celebration of Black Bookstores.
Tickets are on a suggested sliding scale, starting at a minimum of $12 and going up to their suggested $35. If you can’t make it and still want to support BEM, buy a contributor ticket that will go to the continued work in bringing this needed bookstore to life.
And that's it for another edition of ten things! Let me know what you’re enjoying in the comments below— I can’t wait to hear and hopefully try!
Eat well and be well!
Your Friend in Food,
Abena
I loveeeee you & our pic together! This was such a great read ♥️
Love Elle and Becca!