10 meals that changed my life in 2024
7 countries, 7 American States, 1 Canadian Province. One grateful friend in food.
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Happy post-Christmas, 4th night of Hanukkah, and liminal space till New Year. I hope you’re having a restful and reflective holiday whether it’s with family at home, solo, or on a lovely vacation! While I consider myself a wee bit of a holiday grinch, I consider the end of the year to be a great time to reflect on the year that has passed and anticipate the year to come.
For the last 4 years, I’ve been making lists of the most memorable meals and books that shaped me and more recently of the pantry items that made cooking and eating at home more enjoyable. In a world where what we consume is always on the tip of our tongues, it’s nice to look back on what we did take in and how it shaped us or changed our lives. This year, I got to eat in 7 countries, 7 states (if you count airport layover meals), and 1 Canadian province. It was a tough list to narrow and I spent days bringing down my short list of 26 to 10. To be honest, I wish I cooked more at home but as life would have it I got to experience the amazing work of chefs and culinary professionals who make it their life’s work to feed us. Definitely leaving with some inspiration for the kitchen in 2025!
As I’ve gotten older I’ve slowly come to the realization that the best meals don’t always have to do with what’s on the table but more importantly who I’m with and what we’re celebrating. So this is my way of saying thank you to every friend, stranger, and family member I shared a meal with this year. Whether it was a cheeky pint, a casual coffee & pastry, a celebratory dinner, or a late-night snack, I’m beyond grateful to have enjoyed a bite with you. Okay, in no particular order, here are the 10 meals that changed my life in 2024.
Staff Meal at King
West Village, New York City
This year, I got to do my first stage at one of my favourite restaurants in the city, King. You can read more about it here. The experience fundamentally changed how I cook at home, how I participate in restaurant culture and left me with a newfound respect for women leading the charge in the culinary world. Halfway through my laborious eight-hour shift, I got to share family meal with the staff as we prepared for dinner service.
Executive Chef Tina and Pastry Chef Pearl whipped together this stunning summer bounty so quickly that I was both so touched and amazed. This tomato galette was built off the scraps of summer desserts, the steak was leftover protein from an earlier service, and the rice, peas, and mixed greens were whipped up for more sustenance. I loved chatting with the team over the meal and hearing more about their motivations for working in restaurants, what they think about the city’s dining scene, and what they love to make for themselves and their loved ones.
The whole time I was working at King, I was filled with immense gratitude about how I was welcomed with open arms. I was treated no different than the staff who work there and if anything it only motivated me to work harder and make the most of the experience. I just walked away with a deep respect and admiration for chefs and what an honour to learn about food in a safe and enriching environment.
River Cafe with the Siblings
London, England
This year, my brothers and I embarked on our first trip sans parents. It was such a wonderful time and each day just made me realize how lucky and blessed I am to have a great family. Part of the trip was to celebrate my youngest brother’s 18th birthday so we needed one great meal to mark this milestone. To cap off the trip, I snagged a reservation at The River Café, one of London’s most iconic dining institutions. I’ve long admired Ruthie Rogers and Rose Gray, two legendary chefs who started this eatery from humble beginnings. Stepping into the dining complete with blue carpet and the infamous pink pizza oven, I knew I had made the right choice.
The daily changing menu was a true homage to rustic Italian cuisine with a touch of refinement. Feeling adventurous, the birthday brother got the pigeon and I stuck to the classic, the famous Dover Sole. We split the pizzetta bianca, topped with potato and Taleggio, enjoyed the chargrilled squid with rocket (that’s English for spinach) and red chilli, plus the ravioli verde with spring nettles, dusted with Parmesan and just the touch of nutmeg left us full. I was quite emotional because we were engaging in thoughtful conversation about what the trip meant to us and also how we were navigating life. As an older sister, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of pride that my baby brothers were growing up.
For dessert, we dug into the tiramisu, savoured the gelatos, and of course the chocolate nemesis. The team was so kind to write a sweet note in cursive chocolate which naturally embarrassed my brother.
After finishing our last bites and noticing the slow winding down of the kitchen, I walked over to the pass to thank the chef for a wonderful meal. Chef Eliza, who was leading service for the night, and I were chatting and she was kind enough to give me a tour of the famous kitchen. I got to see the produce room, learn about the different stations, and get a peek from the dining room as chefs would see it. It was a dream come true and those few moments alone were enough to inspire me to stage at The River Café one day.
Lunch Celebrating the Contemporary African Kitchen
Brooklyn, New York
To paraphrase the great Issa Rae, I’m rooting for everybody Ghanaian. Last month, I finally got to try jollof, the delicious West African rice dish, made especially by friend of the newsletter, Chef Nana Araba Wilmot. And before I hear any slander from the other West Africans, Ghana Jollof reigns supreme. Nana recently contributed some exceptional recipes to The Contemporary African Kitchen, a new cookbook published by Phaidon celebrating recipes from the beautiful continent. She’s an iconic chef, bringing her experience in fine-dining restaurants and her Ghanaian upbringing, to exciting pop-ups and residences.
To celebrate this momentous launch, BEM Books and More hosted a lunch with Nana cheffing it up and a thoughtful conversation with Chef Alexander Smalls and Dine Diaspora co-founder Nina Oduro, the co-authors who compiled this iconic project. The conversation was a beautiful telling of how the book came to be, why we need more African representation on the global culinary scene, and what it means for chefs like Nana to redefine classic dishes in their own way.
Nana prepared an exceptional menu that combined traditional Ghanaian dishes with some nouveau techniques! Dining with fellow Ghanaians who started as strangers and became friends, we dug into Ghana Salad, tilapia and eba (swallow made from cassava), yassa onion crab cakes, collards, and of course Nana’s famous jollof. It hit the spot, smoky, spicy, and enough to make any auntie give her nod of approval. Conversations ranged from how our parents incorporated Ghanaian culture into our American & Canadians, the things we love and hate about visiting the motherland, and how we need more Ghanaian restaurants in NYC If you want to experience the joys of this jollof and Nana’s other incredible dishes, follow her to get word of her next pop-up. Also, you can order yourself a copy of the Contemporary African Kitchen to bring the joys of the continent to your kitchen.
Taco Class at Maizajo
Condesa, Mexico City
As a fervent consumer of tacos, I knew that someday I would need to learn how the tortilla is made. My friends Lia, Savannah, and I have been dreaming about this creative culinary project and we wanted to learn about the culinary traditions of this vibrant city we call home. After a few convincing chats, Chef Santiago Muñoz was generous enough to let us learn about maiz, the art of making tortillas, and what goes into a great taco at his restaurant, Maizajo.
The Condesa eatery, which recently nabbed its first Michelin bib gourmand this year, is an homage to preserving the heirloom corn varieties that are indigenous to Mexico. Santiago is passionate about giving chilangos(Mexico City natives) an accessible and sustainable way to enjoy good corn and not be tempted to purchase industrialized corn that has plagued the farming system.
When we got to the taqueria, Chef Santiago put us to work. We watched the corn get softened through the ancient process of nixtamalization, milled it to that soft and malleable masa, pressed the masa in a prensa por tortillas, cooked them quickly on the plancha, and had a go at whipping up a few tacos.
Over some chilled glasses of jamaica, Chef Santiago told the beautiful story of his Mexico City upbringing, how he found his calling working in restaurants like Nicos, and why he thinks the best way to honour Mexican cooking is through traditional corn. I’m so grateful to Santi for opening his space up to us and displaying the importance of honouring tradition in an industry that craves innovation. Be sure to check out Maizajo on your next CDMX taco trip.
Post-Beach Seafood Shack
Puerto Escondido, Mexico
Puerto Escondido, the lovely Oaxacan beach town, is one of my favourite places to do nothing. It’s the one time I travel where food isn’t on my mind but on my most recent trip, I got to experience one of the best seafood lunches I’ve ever had. But when friend of the newsletter Ally passionately recommended this spotty seafood shack away from the main drag in Puerto Escondido, I knew I had to make the trip. After a surfing lesson and sipping many micheladas, our sun-kissed crew hopped into a cozy cab and made it to Cockteleria JP. Initially, we were skeptical thinking we had accidentally been directed to an auto shop but then we saw the plastic tables and locals and vacationers enjoying their ceviche and cervezas.
The whiteboard menu was simple, had a healthy sample to choose from, and everything was less than $13. We started with the pulpo (octopus) and camaron(shrimp) ceviches, then the mixto (mixed) aguachiles, and before we knew we ordered the entire menu. There was something so soothing about basking in the hot sun, feeling super sandy from lounging on the beach, and eating spicy, chilled seafood and washing it all down with ice-cold beers. It’s a feeling you can only really enjoy on vacation, free from all distractions.
Restaurant Rizz Dining Club takes Le Veau D’Or
Upper East Side, New York City
This year, my friends and I started the Restaurant Rizz Dining Club. We scour the internet for bucket-list-worthy reservations, split everything on the menu, and make sure we’re extra nice to every single staff member in that institution. We all love food, so it’s always fun to dissect an experience, from the meal, service, the cutlery, and everything in between.
Thanks to the help of friend of the newsletter Jay Strell, the dining club was able to get a reservation at Le Veau D’Or, the swanky brasserie that is transporting us to Julia Child-era dining. The 3-course prix-fixe, along with salade verte for the table, is a steal for fine dining.
When each person makes their selections with the group in mind, it can make for a wholesome experience. For each course, we would try our dish and then rotate clockwise to the next person and by the time the dish made it back to the original selector, we would offer our comments and concerns. I felt like I could experience the entire menu without breaking the bank.
I consulted the group chat to reminisce on our greatest bites of the meal should you need some inspiration for your future Le Veau D’Or experience!
Tortas Ahogadas a Toño’s
Guadalajara, Mexico
Anytime I visit a city, I’m always in search of what I call the prodigal son dish. You know, that one bite that natives and locals own with pride and make a point to always have when they are home. A couple of months ago, I spent a weekend in Guadalajara and I knew it was the home of tortas ahogadas, the famous sandwich that comes drenched in a spicy, vinegary, tomato-based sauce. They say you haven’t visited Jalisco, the state where Guadalajara is, unless you’ve had tequila and a torta ahogada.
The lore behind the sandwich dates back to the late 1800s when the French invaded Guadalajara. A French Sergeant, Camille Perrault, wanted to teach the locals how to make baguettes but they didn’t have any yeast. The warm and wet climate was optimal for sourdough and with a few attempts, the Jalisco birote bread was born. It seems like the local’s choice for getting the best torta ahogada is Tortas Toño. It started as a puestito(little market stand) by Toño and in 33 years has multiple locations in the city. All they serve are tortas so I have a feeling it would be legit.
Going back to my prodigal son theory, here’s a video of Manchester United legend & Guadalajara Chicharito talking about how much he loves Tortas Toño.
It’s a whole experience to get your sandwich and as someone who is obsessed with systems, it sparked so much joy.
You order at the cashier, take your ticket to your sandwich maker, and he slices open a birote on one side, stuffs it with the traditional carnitas (shredded pork) or whatever protein you desire. Then you walk it over to the drowning station where you can get it media ahogada (semi-drowned) or bien ahogada (well-drowned).
You can then top it with fresh onion, radishes, and a healthy juicing of lime. It’s best paired with an ice-cold chela(beer) or if you’re feeling a little fun, you can get a horchata de fresa that kind of reminds you of the strawberry milks of your childhood.
Birthday Dinner at Bangkok Supper Club
New York City
Feeling overwhelmed with birthday planning this year, I decided to spend the energy I would have planning a party gunning for a sought-after reservation. Thanks to the generosity of friend of the newsletter Jenn Saesue, I snagged a table for four at Bangkok Supper Club, an exciting and vibrant Thai spot in the West Village. One of my homies Shreya was visiting from California and my dear friends Alison and Gaby who had just moved back to the city joined me for this fete. Even though it was an intimate crew, I still fulfilled my mission of connecting my worlds together at an event I’m “hosting”. Simply the best!
The menu at Bangkok Supper Club is meant to be shared and I love how much it leans pescatarian and vegetarian making that much more accessible and amenable to a diverse crew. What’s even more special about this place is that they recruited their chef and bar manager from Bangkok’s fine dining scene. Some stand-out dishes were the prawn satays covered in a rich curry cashew butter sauce, deep fried pork jowls with savory garlic baked rice, the grilled eggplant topped with mushrooms and a deep soy glaze, and the bok choy with fried anchovies and oyster sauce.
For dessert, we had this insane coconut pandan ice cream that I think about on my saddest days just to feel something. I felt so loved that evening and it was even more special watching my girlfriends from different parts of my life bond in thoughtful conversation about adulting, friendship, and womanhood.
As luck would have it, my favourite birthday celebrity twin was also dining in the restaurant a few tables over. In honour of Scorpio women and protecting her privacy, I won’t say it publicly but maybe it will come up at a dinner party. I was like what are the odds that she also thought to celebrate her birthday here too? Trés iconique. I hope she also got the coconut ice cream dessert. As someone who loves birthdays, I feel the pressure to always make this day a big one but tucking into a comforting meal with some of my best girlfriends after a busy work day was enough to spark joy.
Anne and Dan’s BBQ Wedding Bash
Sunshine Coast, Canada
This summer, I got to experience peak wedding season and as a romantic, I love love. My dear friends and favourite Canadians Anne and Dan got married on the Sunshine Coast in British Columbia, Canada and it was a joyous weekend celebration. Before the main festivities, Anne and Dan hosted a welcome barbecue at the beautiful resort where they hosted their black tie in the woods fete.
As someone who loves summer, everything about the evening was joyous. We munched on burgers and brats, sipped on niche Western Canadian beers, roasted smores that brought out our inner child, and got a little too competitive tossing beanbags into the cornhole. I was especially in awe of the tomato tower, perfectly stacked and too pretty to eat.
Summer BBQs bring me back to this comforting place where you can just kick back outside and really get to enjoy the company of your loved ones with no fuss or muss. I’m fully convinced that food tastes better when it’s enjoyed al fresco. It’s even more special when you get to meet new friends and bond with old pals all in celebration of two of your favourite people falling in love.
Impromptu Mendl Lunch
Condesa, Mexico City
Somedays you have a tough day and you need the equivalent of a hug or even better a comforting meal. A couple of weeks ago, I went for my bi-weekly bagel run to Mendl, my favourite Jewish deli in Mexico City. I grabbed my order of half a dozen bagels, a wee container of whitefish salad, and of course, the birthday cake I always enjoy for dessert later in the day. I always make a habit of saying hello to the chef and friend of the newsletter, Monse. Normally it’s a quick catch up but this time, she convinced me to stay for lunch and in her excitement, told me about some R&D she’d been doing for the menu.
Few things spark more joy than hearing a chef talk about a dish they’ve brought to life. When Monse brought over the new steak frites dish, we got into a long and fruitful conversation about our love of Parisian dining culture and how we eat when we travel.
Digging into the pile of crispy fries and the juicy steak adorned with slightly blistered garlic and rosemary, Monse’s eyes lit up and her passion shone through as she talked about the traditional elements she wanted to incorporate, reminiscing on the best iterations of steak frites that we’ve ever had. Just when I thought I was done, Monse wanted to bring over a new dessert that she was working on. One of her employees, a Ukranian refugee, shared his mother’s vareniki recipe and it was beautiful hearing Monse wants her team to be involved in sharing their heritage through taste. These cherry-filled dumplings are bright, tangy, and the sour cream on top adds a refreshing smoothness.
At that moment, I was happy to pass the day with my friend but I walked away with a deeper appreciation for chefs, their craft, and also knowing that a lot of dishes we enjoy in restaurants are products of beautiful moments and good stories.
Honestly, there were too many great eating moments that I had to introduce an honorable mention category. These were technically not sit-down meals but they were memorable moments that I deeply appreciated.
Mango Moment
Home, Mexico City
After 5 hours of back-to-back calls on a random workday, I needed to putz around my apartment to get my steps in. Mango season was upon us and in a quick moment to sustain myself, I delicately cut up a mango and ate one half over my sink. Still feeling like it wasn’t enough, I generously sprinkled Tajín on the golden fruit and stepped out in the sun to enjoy it. It was a little moment in my day, savoring delicious fruit with the sun beating down, that made me feel better and appreciate good in-season produce so much more.
Cheeky Pints at The Devonshire
Soho, London
I talked a bit about my sibling trip earlier but the other fun part was getting to legally imbibe in true European fashion so naturally we participated in many first sips of alcoholic beverages. While the train beer in Zurich and the glasses of fancy wine in Paris were great, I think my favourite moment was sharing a pint of Guinness in London. After a day of shopping and strolling, we popped into The Devonshire for a happy hour moment. The tony and sleek Soho pub has the best pour of Guinness outside of Ireland, which would make perfect sense considering they sell the most pints in the UK.
There we were, three lads on vacation sharing space with the lawyers and bankers capping the day off with banter and beers. It was organized chaos, from standing in line, signalling to the barkeep for a pint to making sure we were standing on the right side of the pavement to avoid a potential citation. While I know we will have many more drinks together, there was something about the ceremony behind this first pint that I’ll treasure forever.
Fancy Food Show
Javits Center, New York City
This year, using my privileges as a member of the press, I got to attend the Specialty’s Food Association Food Show. For three days, thousands of food vendors from around the world congregate in New York City’s Javits’ Center showcasing their goods in the hopes of making it to grocery and speciality stores and eventually our pantries.
I felt like a kid in a candy store and what an amazing opportunity to try things like Japanese butter cookies, pineapple miso hot sauce, and even pickled flavoured Spanish chips. I got to see so many industry pals and walked away with 3 tote bags worth of samples that I’m still working through.
Grocery Shopping at La Grand Épicerie
Paris, France
I know I am my mother’s daughter because I cannot travel without bringing back souvenirs from the grocery store. Sure Paris is the city for luxury fashion but you can attain the same serotonin boost with one trip to La Grande Epicerie. This food hall, across the street from the famed department store Le Bon Marché, is a gourmand’s paradise and a necessary pilgrimage for any friend in food. You can enjoy lunch at one of their restaurants or stroll through the cellar for a bottle of wine but the best way to experience the bounty of this heaven is to grab a basket and pretend you’re a Parisian on a grocery run.
I spent two hours just strolling through the aisles, practising the 13 years of grade school French with the shopkeepers, and just basking in the hallowed halls of culinary treasures. Remembering that I was travelling with a carry-on and a budget of 75 euros as an exercise in restraint, I mostly walked away with condiments and a few snacks that could be consumed between stops. Schlepping the yuzu and vanilla Beurre Bordier back home was worth every penny, the curry mustard has changed the game for sandwiches and salad dressing, and the rhubarb jam & chestnut paste have made my morning toasts so much brighter. Can’t wait for my next trip á bientot.
Hani’s Cinnamon Roll
Cooper Square, New York City
There needs to be a German word to describe that feeling when you have a dessert that’s so incredible you just become a different person. Reader, I have a sweet tooth but a few desserts have moved me like the malted milk cinnamon roll from Hani’s. Friend of the newsletter Jill Fergus and I went to the exciting new bakery on its opening day and my life will never be the same.
The new Cooper Square spot run by ex-Gramercy Tavern & Jean-Georges pastry chefs & husband-wife duo Miro and Shilpa Uskokovica is bringing new energy to NYC’s sweet treat scene. The details of the space are stunning from the the staff’s toffee-coloured chore coats to the glass case with the rotating selection and everything in between.
The cinnamon roll is more cake-like, fluffy, and decadent, and the smooth cream cheese icing rounds the whole bite into the best form of pure delight. Also, I took a cinnamon roll to-go, ate it as a midnight snack, and it still maintained its straight-out-of-the-oven freshness hours later. Will definitely be finding excuses to make visits to Hani’s a weekly thing.
Thank you for reading! I hope you ate well this year, especially with the best people by your side. What was your favourite meal in 2024? Lemme know in the comments below. Could be inspo for 2025.
Eat well and be well!
Your friend in food,
Abena
Truly amazing the way food colors our lives! This was a beautiful review (& year)! Thank you for sharing and inspiring ❤️✨🍽️
Thank you!